**FOR SALE ** Project Street Legal Stocker

I’m selling my pride and joy to pursue other interests. Here is your chance to own a very competitive bracket car and mostly original Mustang LX. These cars are getting harder to find in clean condition. It is accident free and 99% original making it a great restoration candidate. It has been well maintained and received only tasteful modifications.

The car has a completely rebuilt 302 / 5.0 with numerous upgrades including head work, windage tray, rare M2 lower intake, and many other upgrades. Only 5000km on motor since being rebuilt. Complete performance exhaust installed (sounds amazing). AOD transmission with firm TransGo shift kit and a 3400 lockup Edge converter. The rear end hosts 4.10 gears and fully rebuilt clutch pack and all new bearings. Interior is gray and is stock with the addition of an Auto meter tach and SN95 seats. Exterior is red and rust issues are minor since the car hasn’t been driven in the winter for many years. Lots of recent maintenance has been done including new windshield, radiator, suspension and brakes. I have all the original parts I have removed from the car.

As a bracket car it is extremely consistent. Best run to date is 13.78 at 99mph and the motor is 98% stock. Easy to drive and competitive - I have three Wally’s to prove it. Email for more details.

Price: $6500obo        fiveohfever@gmail.com

Pictures:

Complete Car History:

August 11, 2003
Purchased from 2nd owner for $4300. 100% stock vehicle including original plug wires 182,730km.
- removed silencer, shampoo motor, replaced air filter with K&N

August 12, 2003
- New Accel 9mm plug wires
- New Accel brass HP cap and rotor
- Dialetric grease on all plug boots
- New fuel filter
- Wash and polish
- Checked PCV valve (okay)

August 17, 2003
- replaced valve cover seals with Ford O ring gaskets

August 20, 2003
- replaced rearend gasket
- 2 quarts 75/90 synthetic gear lube with friction modifier (ford)

August 30, 2003
- set TPS sensor voltage to 0.9999v
- new serpentine belt
- set timing to 14 degrees
- new rear tires from Village Ford – 235 R 15 Goodyear GT II’s

October 25, 2003
- oil change, 4.5L 10W30 Ford oil and CFL-1 Ford filter
- 186, 611km

January 16, 2004
- new Carter HP fuel pump 190lph
- Village Ford installation

February 8, 2004
- 190, 425km
- Oil change Ford oil

March 3, 2004
- 191, 631km
- Oil change Penzoil
- Noticeable rear seal leak detected (and pan gasket)

March 18, 2004
- new TFI and stator / rebuilt distributer (Village Ford)

April 1, 2004
- new ball joints and inner tie rod ends
- wheel alignment

April 3, 2004
- new BOSCH alternator 192, 625 km

April 14, 2004
- new Flowmaster 40 series mufflers installed with turn downs

May 2004
- engine was pulled to replace the leaky gasket
- new Ford oil pump
- Speed Pro timing chain
- New seals (rear, pan, intake)
- New heater hoses (all)
- New engine mounts
- MAC underdrive pulleys installed
- Removed smog pump and piping.

August 10, 2004
- new battery cables

September 16, 2004 (202, 104 km)
- new BOSCH starter
- new drivers window
- new door handles

September 22, 2004
- oil change

January 31, 2005 (208 ,562km)
- Oil change

March 29, 2005
- new rotors and drums
- new mid grade pads installed
- Work done at Fastlane

June 10, 2005
- oil change

August 18, 2005
- replaced ACT sensor

August 23, 2005 (221,550km)
- oil change
- flushed power steering
- new rotor and cap

September 23, 2005 (223,756km)
- replaced alternator under warranty

October 8, 2005
- new Ford heater core installed

October 17, 2005
- new thermostat and gasket

December 18, 2005 (228, 599km)
- oil change

April 15, 2006
- replaced BOSCH starter on warranty
- new starter to switch cable
- new ECT sensor

April 27, 2006
- removed A/C system
- 180 degree thermostat
- Basic bodywork and paint
- Ford A/C delete kit installed with 73 inch serpentine belt

May 13, 2006 (231,615km)
- oil change
- installed AOD-HP Transgo Shift Kit
- Village set TV pressure

July 27, 2006 (233,069km)
- new spark plugs
- oil change

March 21, 2007 (238 000Km)
- oil change

May 15, 2007 (239,410 km)
- oil change, replaced thermostat gasket which was leaking

June 2007
- installed Richmond 4.10 gears @ Village Ford

August 3, 2007 (242, 000km)
- New Lakewood 70/30 struts, 50/50 rear struts and 4 cylinder springs up front

August 8, 2007
- oil change

August 21, 2007
- installed 130 AMP 3G alternator
- new 4 gauge cable from alternator to solenoid

September 11, 2007 (243,900km)
- oil change
- installed flex-a-lite S398 electic fan (2500cfm)
- hayden adjustable fan controller

December 31, 2007 (245,000km)
- New Fenco power steering pump and return hose
- Flushed power steering system
- AOD transmission flush
- Oil change
- New belt tensioner

May 29. 2008
- oil change

June 4, 2008
- 180 degree high flow thermostat

July 26, 2008
- Hurst roll control
- Lakewood driveshaft loop

July 29, 2008
- new Hitachi starter (lifetime warranty)
- new windshield from Crystal Glass

August 1, 2008 (248, 591km)
- oil change

June 22, 2009
- new ignition switch
- new key tumbler and keys
- new turn signal flasher

July 2009 (252,133km)
- rebuilt the motor using a good core motor
- Darren’s Machining hot tanked , hones, checked over, new cam bearings
- Full re-ring kit from Northern Auto Parts with standard cut moly rings, clevite bearings, RACE gaskets
- Heads were prepped by Ken at Maxx Machine in Swift Current. He backcut the intake valves, did 3 angle valve job, tested all valves, springs, new seals, locks, and did a wide chamber cut on the valve, milled the head deck
- New Cloyes adjustable performance timing chain
- New ford oil pump
- Ford Racing hardened oil pump shaft
- MAC windage tray
- New Ford O2 sensors
- Rebuilt and flow balanced fuel injectors 19lb (4 hole style)
- 18,000GVW transmission cooler
- Edge Street 9.5 inch 3400stall lockup converter installed
- Cooltech starter heat shield

July 26, 2009 (253, 135 km)
- new Ford filter
- Repairs passenger side exhaust
- New TPS sensor
- Reset idle

August 18, 2009 (255,200km)
- New Hitachi starter and solenoid
- Oil change

May 23, 2010 (256,710 km)
- BBK 1 5/8 shorty headers
- Pypes stainless steel X pipe
- 3 ¾ Autometer tach installed
- New Ford Racing 9mm plug wires

May 30, 2010 (256, 710km)
- Odomoter and speedo stopped working
- New Prestone radiator
- Reinstalled fan shroud
- Tom Moss porter lower intake M2 **
- New intake gasket set
- Oil change (Royal Purple 10W30 full synthetic)

July 16, 2010
- reinstalled factory 3-4 shift valve in AOD valve body to eliminate the chance of shifting into overdrive at WOT
- Installed blue firmer spring in VB
- New VB filter and gasket
- Oil change

May 19, 2011
- new Raybestos rear 9 inch drums installed ($90) due to one drum being out of round

Project Stocker

Welcome to my Mustang stock eliminator project. I do hope you find some of this informative or entertaining. I grew up always drooling over the 1960's and 1970's NHRA stock and super stock race cars. Needless to say, I've been hooked on the prospect of class racing since I was very young. Finally in 2003 I was able to spend some time and money working towards my goal.

My goal: Build an NHRA stock eliminator legal mustang that can be driven to the track and run under the class index.

I've got a long way to meeting my goal. However, I've got some great help available to me as struggle to improve.

The Car:

It is a 1988 Ford Mustang LX notchback with a 5.0 EFI and an AOD automatic. The only options on the car are A/C and cruise control. The car has undergone some minor changes over the past 7 years. Current upgrades include:

• 4.10 Richmond gears
• rebuild traction-lok
• Transgo HP AOD shift kit (shifted in D or manually)
• 3200 stall 9.5 inch Edge converter (w/ lock-up)
• Stock 5.0 motor
• windage tray
• MAC underdrive pulleys
• 180 degree thermostat
• upgraded plug wires, plugs, cap & rotor, indexed plugs
• Flexalite Electric fan
• 130AMP alternator
• Lakewood 70/30 struts and 4 cyl springs
• Lakewood 50/50 shocks and GT springs
• Mickey Thompson 26 by 9 ET Streets
• Flowmaster 40 series mufflers with dumps
• 190lph fuel pump
• Removed the A/C system
• Removed front sway bar
• K&N

History:

I originally purchases the car in the summer of 2003 with 180,000km. The car was completely stock - including the original plug wires and silencer. As any AOD owner knows, the car barely could spin the tires. Especially due to the fact it had 2.73 gears. As with any high mileage car, I've done endless maintenance ranging from brakes, suspension, to heater core(s) (Argh), and countless leaks.

My plans for the car to near the M/SA or N/SA index (currently low 13's) with the AOD are:

• Better Valvebody and maybe more converter
• Lightweight wheels & tires (26 by 9 slicks)
• Custom stocker camshaft with stock lift, way more duration ;)
• Electric water pump drive
• Long tube headers
• Manual steering

Have any advice? Feel free to contact me at fiveohfever@gmail.com

Tips and Tricks:

I've been fortunate to have a very consistent car. In fact, on many race dates I've varied as little as 5 /100ths all day long. These are my thoughts on how to be successful at drag racing and making a consistent starter bracket car.

• Be a robot: the driver is a massive variable that gets affected by ever little thing - much more so than the car itself. So, do everything the same - make a ritual about how you enter the car, enter the burnout, do the burnout, and approach the tree
• Listen, listen, and listen more! Other racers are the real source of knowledge. Listen to what they are saying to each other and make sure to ask every question you may have...even the stupid ones. I know as I've asked tons of them :)
• Pay attention: Racers are an extremely competitive bunch of people. They'll spend thousands of dollars and hours just to gain a small advantage. Don't forget that.
• Put your time and energy where you can make a difference: My mantra has been make the car consistent and learn to cut good lights. I'm sure I could wring another 3-4 tenths out of my car at the cost of some consistency. The car can take years to get dialed in. However, for $99 you can buy a practice tree.
• Be alone at the tree: Ignore you opponent until your near the last 200ft. It is you vs. the tree.
• Cutting good lights = Win lights
• Do the maintenance: If you hear a squeak or rattle or something seems amiss - it probably is! Spend the time and money needed to rectify the problem before it begins. It is no fun losing first round but it's even worse to lose in the final because your your starter just died.
• Know your car: Make changes one at a time until you find out what works for your car. Don't jack the fuel pressure, timing, adjust the tires, etc.. all at once. You need a planned approach for understanding what works best for your car. Make changes that make your car more consistent not necessarily faster. In my case, I often tell people I'm running about 90% - and I'm not referring to nitro - by taking out some timing and rpm my car responds by being more predictable.

Sponsors:

My quest for success would not be possible without supports of friends. Thank you to:

• www.obd-codes.com
• www.fordf150.net
• http://www.fordflex.net
• Village Ford Lincoln
• Performance Plus +
• Porter Racing
• My wife!

Racing Accomplishments:

• 2009 SIR King of the Track
• 2006 & 2007 SIR Street Legal Points Champion
• 2007 SIR 2nd Place Overall Sportsman Class
• 2007 - 5 Street Legal Class Wins, 1 Runner-Up
• 2007 - 2 Sportsman Class Wins, 1 Runner-Up
• 2006 - SIR Most Improved Racer Award
• 2006 - 3 Street Legal Class Wins, 1 Runner- Up
• 2006 - 1 Sportsman Class Runner-Up
• 2003 - 1 Street Legal Class Win

Links & Inspiration:

• www.classracer.com
• www.corral.net
• www.clickclickracing.com
• www.stangnet.com
• Evan Smith
• Ed Hohenberg
• Jeff Swanson
• Earle Holt
• Lee Valentine
• Travis Gusso
• Al Renkel
• Ed Smith
• Bob Cosby